Journey Five / Chapter 3

Latvia

August 2024

A road trip through Latvia reveals its rich history, from the military remnants of Karosta to the medieval charm of Kuldīga and Ventspils. The journey also highlights the Soviet legacy in Irbene and the haunting Corner House in Riga, reflecting Latvia’s complex past.

The Baltic region is home to some of the most fascinating and historically charged destinations in Europe. A road trip through Latvia offers a unique opportunity to explore places that are not only rich in cultural heritage but also steeped in the darker chapters of the 20th century. Starting with Karosta, a district in Liepāja, one can experience the eerie remnants of its Soviet military past. Once a fortified naval base, it is now known for the Karosta Prison, which offers an unsettling glimpse into its history as a site of military detention. The surrounding architecture, marked by crumbling barracks and stark defensive structures, tells the story of a bygone era when Karosta was a strategic stronghold of both the Tsarist and Soviet empires.

From the coastal ruins of Karosta, a short drive takes you to Kuldīga, a town that feels like a journey back in time. Kuldīga is a well-preserved medieval town known for its Venta Rapid, Europe’s widest waterfall, and cobblestone streets lined with colorful wooden houses. The town’s role as a bustling trade center in the 16th century is still evident in its charming blend of Gothic and Baroque architecture. Kuldīga represents a rare glimpse into Latvia’s more peaceful past, before it was overtaken by the dramatic shifts of war and occupation. Its quiet, picturesque environment is a stark contrast to the more somber sites you encounter in Latvia’s urban centers.

A few hours west, Ventspils offers an entirely different atmosphere, combining maritime heritage with modern growth. Once a key trading port, the city still carries remnants of its medieval roots, notably the Ventspils Castle, which overlooks the city and its harbor. Today, Ventspils is a thriving industrial port, but its charming Old Town remains well-preserved, with medieval fortifications standing alongside more contemporary buildings. The city serves as a reminder of Latvia’s dual identity as both a hub for commerce and a cultural center shaped by its proximity to the Baltic Sea. Ventspils’ balance of the past and present is a testament to Latvia’s resilience and adaptability through centuries of change.

Heading further into the Latvian countryside, Irbene stands as a testament to the Cold War’s impact on the region. Once home to a Soviet-era radar station, Irbene Radio Astronomy Center still towers above the forested landscape. The station was originally constructed to monitor Western air traffic and communications, a stark reminder of the tense geopolitical climate of the 1980s. Today, the facility continues to operate as a research center, but its history as a secret military site adds a layer of intrigue. Visiting Irbene is like stepping into a relic of the past, where technology and isolation created a chillingly secretive atmosphere that defined much of Soviet-era Latvia.

Finally, a visit to Riga, Latvia’s vibrant capital, brings us to one of its most somber monuments: the Corner House. Located in the city center, this building’s history as a KGB headquarters during the Soviet occupation of Latvia casts a shadow over its otherwise majestic surroundings. Originally completed in 1899, the Corner House served as a commercial building before it became notorious for its role in the repression of political dissidents. Its architecture, both imposing and stark, serves as a chilling reminder of the fear and oppression experienced by many Latvians during the Soviet regime. Today, it stands as a museum and memorial to the victims of the KGB, preserving its legacy as a site of political imprisonment and torture. The Corner House embodies the darkest aspects of Riga’s 20th-century history, offering an evocative contrast to the city’s otherwise lively and cosmopolitan atmosphere.